PCGI Single-Pitch Guide Course

SINGLE-PITCH GUIDE COURSE

The Single-Pitch Guide Course (SPG) is designed for guiding and instructing in single-pitch lead climbing terrain. The SPG is perfect for climbing instructors working primarily in single-pitch terrain requiring lead climbing or for people that are competent Top Rope guides looking to expand their guiding abilities into Single-Pitch Terrain. It is also an excellent choice for college rock climbing program leaders, rock climbing club leaders, youth rock climbing program leaders, or recreational rock climbers wishing to improve safety and efficiency in Single-Pitch terrain.

The SPG focuses on Lead-Follow style guiding with up to two clients in straightforward single-pitch terrain. The emphasis is on top managed techniques, belay techniques, efficiency, stance management, teaching and facilitation skills, single-pitch specific rescue techniques, advanced anchoring, belaying, lowering, and rappelling techniques, and the fine art of leading with clients belaying you. This course provides students with the tools to successfully provide a safe and enjoyable experience for any given client in single-pitch terrain. The SPG does not include instruction in short roping, short pitching, intermediate belays, and complex approaches and descents. The training does not encompass guiding or instruction in glaciated environments.

A primary goal of this training is to provide an open forum for learning and discussion in a supportive learning environment while presenting rigorous practical Single-Pitch guiding and instructing skill paradigms. The SPG consists of 3 days of technical, hands on Single-Pitch rock climbing guide training. The training days are a combination of group discussions and analysis of systems, instructor demonstrations of common rock climbing guiding techniques, and extensive hands on learning and practice for students. Mentors give extensive individual attention to students. Prior guiding experience at the top-rope level is strongly suggested before taking this course. Lead climbing up to 5.6 is conducted during the SPG. Students must be comfortable with traditional routes with gear anchors at this grade.

Course Length: 3 days

Max Ratio: 4-1

SPG – prerequisites: 1) Comfortable lead climbing 5.6 traditional and sport climbing routes (must be documented via the climbs roster of the course registration form). 2) Capable of using traditional climbing gear (camming devices and stoppers) to build standard three-piece traditional anchors. 3) Lead climbing experience of at least two years. Prior top-rope guiding experience strongly suggested. 4) Working knowledge of the following knots and hitches:

Figure-eight follow through Figure-eight and overhand on a bight Double figure-eight and overhand Bowline Double fisherman Clove hitch Munter hitch Friction hitches Suggested gear list:

The following gear list is by no means prescriptive, only a recommendation. Students must provide their own gear.

Climbing harness with belay loop Climbing helmet Standard free climbing rack, which should minimally include a set of wired nuts and camming units 10-12 shoulder-length runners with carabiners 60-meter climbing rope Sticky rubber approach shoes Climbing shoes comfortable enough to wear all day in hot conditions Five large Pear shaped locking carabiners Two 18-21 foot long 7mm nylon cords (cordalette) Belay device (Gri-Gri & ATC Guide/Reverso/Plate) 40-65 ft. of 9.5-10.5 mm static line for extending anchors

*Note: Completing a PCGI training course does not constitute certification. In order to obtain PCGI certification individuals must pass a separate assessment for certification.